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susan's archery dress research

I have made a version of this dress, you can see it here.

Pictures are from Photobox or Narniaweb's gallery or are capped by me.(Click on pictures to see the full size view.)





Overdress:

This dress seems to have a visible weave to it. This would suggest fabrics such as wool gabardine, or twill. My personal opinion is that it is wool, but who knows. The dress is floor length, or just above. When Susan runs, you can see her ankles. Susanís dress had a double princess seam in the front. Meaning there is an extra front-side piece on each side of the dress. You can see the extra seam in the picture here.The dress has 9 panels in it and has a very full skirt. It laces up the back with green woven cording, over a placket of the dress fabric which can be seen in the picture here and here .

There is a small slit at the neckline on the front of the dress. It has a wide scoop neck and is laced with dark brown cording going straight across. There are 4 eyelets bound with dark green thread that the lacing goes through. You can see a picture of it here. There is green embroidery of vines and leaves that runs along the neckline and down the sides of the slit. It is very hard to see, the only pictures I have of the embroidery are
Here is my pattern for the neckline embroidery:


Sleeves
The sleeves are form fitting sleeves that flare out at the wrist. The sleeves have a little extra room between the shoulder and the elbow which can be seen here, then seem to be pretty tight from the elbow to where they flare out again at the wrist which you can see in this picture. The sleeves are longer on the outside than the inside, allowing the sleeve to be out of the way when Susan uses her bow.

This next part is just my opinion on how these sleeves are constructed. One would think that the sleeves would be shortest on the inside, where the seam is. But looking at several photos, I donít think that is the case. I think that the shortest part is actually at the front of the sleeve, to the right (or left, depending on the sleeve) of the seam. So when your arm hangs down, with your palms facing your body, the shortest part is over your thumb and the longest part is over your pinky fingers. This would make sense, because when you raise your arm to fire a bow, the seam moves and is facing the ground. With the shortest part off center, it moves to the inside of your wrist when you raise your arm in front. But like I said, this is purely speculation on my part. It may be that the shortest part is on the seam and I am just insane. Itís highly possible. But here is my evidence: pic1, pic2, pic3, pic4, pic5, pic6, pic7

There is embroidery along the wrists and the sleeves are bag lined. Here is a link where I have compiled pictures of the sleeve embroidery, There are either 4 or 5 elliptical slits just above her elbow, even with her bust, where the lining is crinkled and slightly sticks through. There is an under sleeve that goes almost to her wrist bone, that can be seen here, which I believe is part of the underdress.

Here is my pattern for the sleeve embroidery


Underdress:

This part of the dress is difficult to see and hard to figure out what is going on. What we know for sure is that Susan is wearing a full length light green underdress with (presumably) long sleeves. It is a few inches shorter than the overdress. It is a shiny material with a horizontal grain to it. From there it is speculation.

The underdressís neckline is above that of the overdressís at some points like in this picture here, at others it is even with the overdress. There is either a seam a few inches from the neckline which can be seen faintly under the lower lacing in this picture, meaning that there is a yoke, or as it has been mentioned on narniawebís costume forum, it may be a line of stitches that hold the gathering to the neckline. If there is such a thing.

The sleeves, I have mentioned are long sleeved. These sleeves are not the ones we see sticking out of the slits in the overdress, that is the overdress sleeve lining. These go underneath the lining and are not attached to the overdress. (As far as I know.) One of the only images where you can see them is here, or a close up view here.

Thanks to the DVD that is now released, I have proof that there is a band of gold material along the bottom of it. There are several instances in the movie where gold can be seen peeking at the bottom of her dress like in this picture. But in the scene where she is sitting in the tree while Peter fights Maugrim, you can see the inside of the underdress, and it is green with no gold. When she jumps down from the tree, her overdress flares out and you can see that the band of gold fabric sewn to the outside bottom of the underdress (the "right" side of the fabric). Like in this picture and this picture

Belt:
Susan sometimes wears a dark brown tooled belt with the dress. From what I can tell, it has a flower motif around her waist and somehow goes through a silver buckle. Iím not quite sure how it works, it doesnít seem to me that the belt would stay in one place the way she has it, but it does so apparently there is some trick to it. The tooling stops once the belt goes through the buckle and the part that hangs down in front is plain. You can see it in the pictures here and here.

Shoes:
Susan wears dark brown sandals with her dress. The following images have been taken from The Wardrobe Door